Dine Out - Stefano's

Pizza, pasta and pizzazz, Richard Aindow at Stefano's


Lights, Camera … Action! goes the fabled phrase. Although cinematographically inaccurate these days, there is still a sense of old-time theatre in film-making; a dramatic quality shared with the best Italian restaurants – there should, after all, be a reason the owner’s name is up in lights. Cue a visit to Stefano’s at State Cinemas.

But first, the plot so far. Stefano’s opened its doors in 2005 to rave reviews. I remember it well, because I was one of the enthusiasts. Stefano brought real pizza to Nelson; cooked in a stone oven with wafer-thin base and covered with the type of mozzarella that should be a legal requirement in the 21st century. Since then, Stefano left to open Venice Cove Osteria before recently returning to the reins at Stefano’s. In summary, full circle. Time to test the new/old Stefano’s.

Arriving in a bustle of a Friday-evening, pre-movie rush – along with most diners, we are there to eat then dash into a theatre – evidently there is more pressure on Stefano’s to be punctual than any other restaurant in town. Greeted by the owner, we are made to feel like old friends; his face lights up as each special is described with the confidential air of a man letting us into a secret that we really must keep.

Establishing we have a date with the big screen, Stefano reappears again promptly and, after decision-making almost as quick as his hand gestures, we are soon sitting in anticipation of Italian food – never an easy thing to do, but in Stefano’s it is made more palatable by people watching. With the promise of food and the movie to come, the undercurrent of excitement is infectious; we natter happily about Tarantino and Tahunanui until our food arrives.

Bypassing starters, we plunge straight into the main feature; pasta for me and pizza (ripe for pinching) across the table. But first things first; my monumental slab of chicken lasagna with fresh side salad awaits. Tucking in, this is the very definition of trattoria food – simple and rustic, a creamy pasta dish that is unpretentious and delicious in equal measure. I gesticulate flamboyantly in approval.

The main test of any pizzeria lies tantalisingly out of reach, however. As it is delivered to the far side of our table, one of Stefano’s gourmet pizzas moves into grabbing range for both its intended recipient and my grasping fingers. My companion has opted for a ‘half and half’ option so we can try both a Jamaica (including Karilyn Phillips’ celebrated jerk chicken) and Padrino, with ham, salami, capsicum, and gorgonzola. Featuring an enormous, but delicate, base that looks prepared to feed a family of four if called upon, both halves are covered in creamy Italian mozzarella and taste exactly like pizza should. And, whilst I prefer the more traditional pizza toppings, both are belissimo.
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The clock is still ticking, but there is still time to grab a desert before doors close and titles roll. What else in an Italian restaurant than tiramisu? Freshly made, it is tasty and although it would benefit from more resting time, Stefano arrives to describe the production process and to confess that this batch should have been left overnight before serving. In place of a flat white, I wolf down an affogato – made from rich vanilla ice cream, crunchy biscotti, and an espresso to pour on top, it is just the ticket to heighten the senses before we escape into Screen 2 with moments to spare.

Sequels are not often better than the original, but at Stefano’s the producers may just have pulled it off. Stefano’s is again worth a trip – whether you are heading to the movies or not.

91 Trafalgar Street, Nelson. 03 546 7530
Open: Every day 9am–10pm

In Summary

Food: Irrepressibly Italiano
Service: Gregarious    
Atmosphere: Pre-movie melée            
Drink: Dreaming of Peroni
Rating: 4 stars