Dineout - Golden Bear, Mapua

We all have an easy-eating spot where we nosh well, confident our money’s-worth is had. It knocks your socks off without any posturing and you don’t feel you’ve been extorted of money or dropped your shorts in the process. You’d run back – purse strings loose, wallet at the ready – without hesitation.

While I expect to see Jim and Anne Matranga’s Golden Bear Brewing Company in Mapua become the hottest joint in town, the selfish part of me longs to keep their wharfside pub to myself. As I’m tasked with talking food, though, I’m obligated to share.

Often I rail against the obvious: some eateries forget their limitations. Failing to keep the promise intimated on a menu, the real insult comes with the docket. Local restaurants seemingly charge the same as each other, but with huge disparity in quality and content. Not the case here.

Golden Bear might not spring to mind as a gastronomic hot-bed and rightly so, but for food that knows what it is, won’t send you over a barrel, and will satisfy down to your toes, it’s worthy of a drive.

Coming from the US where good eats and beer have long been fast friends, finding fish tacos and rough-and-tumble bratwurst alongside the likes of piney-citrusy pale ale and lush dark beer is a no-brainer.

Bypassing small bites on the refreshingly fairly-priced menu (with pictures no less), we started with a dozen Jamaican Jerk Wings for only $10. Grilled perfectly, they were mild for our taste, but bottled beer favourites like authentic Mexican staple Tapatio and Jamaican Pickapeppa added just enough oomph.

Nachos came next; the corn chip rounds handily prevented from what can sometimes be a soggy affair by the cheesy-bean dip on the side. This was filling and could easily satisfy two lingering over half-pints of whatever might be on tap. For us it was the Festive Ale: dark amber, hoppy, and lightly fruity to round out the edges.

One of the most expensive menu items at $18, the huevos rancheros (WAY-vose ran-CHAIR-ose) is a variation on an old Mexican favourite: black beans and corn tortillas layered with a lick of sour cream, fresh tomato, onion, lime, and fresh coriander …, all topped with a perfectly poised fried egg. Golden Bear’s version lacked classic salsa ranchero, and, while my little Mexican grandma would cluck at the suggestion, bottled hot sauce only made it more wonderful.

Pork tacos come as they should in soft corn tortillas, but with rice and beans included in the shells and not on the side, the tortillas crumbled easily. Still flavourful and only $7, they satisfied, as did the $10 Louisiana-style ribs which come tangy and hot with the menu imperative to lick bones and fingers clean.

Sure it’s pure Americana, but “pie of the week” for pudding isn’t to be missed – dark, rich pecan on this night and worthy of my Alabaman grandma’s thumbs-up. Rumour has it Anne does the baking, and at just $6 for generous, lovingly-crafted slices with a fresh cream dollop, you can’t pass it up.

As if good food weren’t enough, there’s equally wonderful beer, made by the cook manning the grill that night: brewer-owner Jim. Talk about multi-tasking!

Dress down, pay a visit, eat well, and get some satisfaction from your meal away from home. Golden Bear Brewing is worth a visit, but, psst ... let’s keep it to ourselves.

Address: 12 Aranui Road, Mapua
Phone: (03)540-3210
Open: Thursday through Saturday, 12–10pm, Sunday 12–8pm

IN SUMMARY:
Rating: 4 tomatoes
Food: Mexican-influenced fresh, flavourful fare with tasty beer to boot
Service: Prompt and friendly
Atmosphere: Belly up to the bar with a brewery view, or sit fireside – the wharf’s your oyster
Drink: Golden Bear Brewing Festive Ale and Seismic IPA