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Dineout- The Gothic

BY MONICA MEAD
Cooler, tourist-free months allow catch-ups with venues seen only fleetingly from the car, and after routinely passing the bustling courtyard of The Gothic Restaurant Café & Bar in Motueka mid-summer, we were curious – albeit too late to avail ourselves of said courtyard in mid-winter – so off we went for a meal.

The restaurant’s moniker invites some pretty interesting interpretation, but shrugging off the chill, we found our way to the door and in we walked. You can forget thoughts of cacophonous catacombs, sepulchral cob-filled chambers, sinister medieval iron cages, and dire black and grey as central themes in the decor; it may have been cold outside, but we found ourselves in a surprisingly warm, light, high-ceilinged dining room on a quiet week night with nary a Visigoth or Marilyn Manson wannabe in sight. Shrugging off coats, we settled in and scanned the menu which boasted flavours and fare for any palate: everything from a – perhaps misguided – fusion of soy and mirin-kissed ribs to tried-and-true spag bol.

Lingering over the menu, a bottle of wine was in order, and the Roaring Meg Pinot Noir from Mt Difficulty fit the bill. In fact, the wine list was delightfully accessible in price, and local wineries well-represented (in spite of our Central Otago choice) though (as with most of our region’s fair eateries) some depth in the beer selection could do nothing but bolster the list. Wine gets the lion’s share of attention here, but some of our local beers would make for some pretty ideal beer-food pairing.

Regardless, banishing grumbling bellies was our goal and so entrées were chosen: Tasman Bay scallops in Mornay sauce and Asian-style pork ribs. Both were admirably presented – my scallops nestled in their distinctive shells, though they were overdone – and the ribs were cooked well.

For mains, a groper steak and the lamb rump seemed perfect foils to the chilly evening, arriving both timely and hot. While incredibly flavourful, a longer braise for the rump would have been in order, though the portion size was more than ample and, thankfully, help to finish it was only an arm’s-length away across the table. The groper had seen better days, was overcooked, and not to our liking … but puddings saved the meal. French apple tart and warm sticky date pudding, the latter of which I can recommend.

As we tucked in, more tables filled and the room hummed with the happy banter of families and friends, furthering my notion that the restaurant offers sanctuary for locals in need of a dining fix close to home. It’s spacious, and the bar is refreshingly light-filled and welcoming, especially with flaming wood heat at the entrance to further entice – certainly not what one might envision of a place called The Gothic.

Local artist John Gosney designed the unique, sprawling stone-and-iron courtyard outside, making it a worthwhile stop in sunnier times for a quick bite over leisurely conversation and some sun, a ritual that should be practiced with relish and almost religiously.

Address: 208 High Street, Motueka

Phone: 03 528-6699

Open: Mon-Sat: 10am-2.30pm, 5.30pm to late; Sun: 10am-2:30pm, 5:30-8pm.