GrapeVine - Is organic / biodynamics the future of wine?

Is organic/biodynamics the future of wine?

”We’ve found that the fruit from our organic blocks has been great, but you cannot make a generalisation saying organic fruit is better than non-organic. You can grow very bad organic fruit, there can be some very bad organic wine out there... it’s a bit like ’going to church doesn’t necessarily make you super-religious’. Essentially, being organic is good for the soil, your staff and for the wine.”

These are the words of Mandy Weaver from Marlborough’s boutique Churton winery, which is in the process of becoming a certified organic, and later on biodynamic, winery. She is passionate about ’being green’ and is involved in the Marlborough Comittee of Organic Winegrowers as well as Organic Winegrowers New Zealand. She says, “There is a lot of interest in coming on board” from wineries around the country.

Many wineries are currently in a transition period and it’s therefore hard to put exact numbers on how many have actually ‘gone green’. Rebecca Reider from Organic Winegrowers New Zealand explains: “the wine industry still has a way to go in terms of ‘going green’, but we are seeing some really encouraging signs. The number of winegrowers now becoming certified organic is significant and more growers are making the transition to organics every year. Marlborough is leading the way. A fair number in Nelson too, although smaller. Both regions have active Organic Winegrowers groups. Nationally, we've seen the amount of vineyard land under organic certification double in the last two years and it shows no sign of slowing down.”

To be certified ‘organic’ the winegrower must strive to cooperate with nature. No synthetic chemical fertilisers, pesticides or herbicides are permitted in the vineyard. Instead, organic producers rely on understanding and working with ecological processes, biodiversity and naturally derived resources. The goals are to build healthy soils and vines, support human health and create harmony in the vineyard environment.

For some, it’s not enough to be organic so they take the next step and become biodynamic as well, which is like supercharging the organics, making it proactive. Lars Jensen from Richmond Plains Wines, the first New Zealand vineyard to be certified biodynamic in May 2008, explains: ”Biodynamics encompasses organic philosophies, but takes a much wider and holistic approach, viewing the vineyard as a whole eco system and its place in the world cosmos. For example, running your own cattle to make compost or taking into account when is the best day to pick or prune grapes according to phases of the moon - just like fishing. By allowing the vineyard to find its own natural balance, the soil and vines will be healthier and stronger.”

The first winery to establish an organic vineyard in Marlborough was Seresin whose owner, cinematographer Michael Seresin, is adamant about treating the environment with respect. After practising organics for a number of years it was a natural progression to advance to biodynamics and now the entire Seresin estate is farmed biodynamically. Chief winemaker, Clive Dougall, loves the organic side of things and says that once you have opened the door to organics you never shut it again. ”I think the biodynamic wines have a certain soul to them and there is something about them that make you want to explore them more.” His own personal favourites are Riesling and Pinot Noir.

On that note, it’s time to explore some of those organic wines –happy healthy drinking.


IN THE CELLAR

SUNSET VALLEY 2008 Pinot Noir Reserve
Owner and winemaker, Ian Newton, says “being organic is the only way” for him. He released the 2008 Pinot Noir in May 2010 and, although it will keep developing beautifully over the next decade, it is lovely now with fruity aromas with hints of plums and caramel. RRP $28

RICHMOND PLAINS PINOT NOIR 2009
Nicely structured, this is a young and light, yet very pleasant easy-drinking wine full of plum and black cherry characters. Made to be drunk young, but will benefit from cellaring. RRP $23

CHURTON PINOT NOIR 2008
The 2008 Pinot Noir was released in June 2010 and is great to drink now, but will cellar well up to ten years. It’s complex, silky and balanced with a delightful aftertaste of liquorice. RRP $37-42

FROMM LA STRADA CHARDONNAY 2008
Fromm Winery has worked their vineyards organically for years, but are only just in the final stages of becoming certified. This steel-tank fermented Chardonnay has just been released and, thanks to its flintyness, it’s more like a French Chablis. Absolutely smooth and gorgeous. RRP $28