Travel - In Patagonia

This rugged wilderness has inspired generations of explorers, writers and adventure by Craig Sisterson
We entered this iconic region from the north. After two months travelling through silver mines and salt flats in Bolivia – and rainforests, ravines, and ruin-filled mountain passes in Peru – Bariloche was something completely different, and yet, strangely familiar. Sapphire lakes, snow-dusted peaks soaring from dense forest, an alpine village, skiing in cold weather, great hiking and biking in warm. We may have been in Argentina, but fond memories of the pristine beauty of Nelson Lakes flood back.

The town itself has a definite ‘European’ feel: stone and timber A-frame buildings; stores selling hand-made chocolates; adorable St Bernards lazing in the main square; menus packed with fondue and craft beer. Like a little piece of Switzerland in the middle of South America. In between traversing nearby trails by ski, foot, or wheel, local highlights include taking the chair-lift for stunning views, grabbing a choripan (local spicy hotdog) from a street vendor, hitting luxurious Hotel Llao Llao for cocktails, or renting a car for the scenic ‘Seven Lakes’ drive to San Martin.

While you’re surrounded by plenty of freshwater in Bariloche, the Patagonian coast is the home of water-based wonders of another kind. An overnight bus ride east, Puerto Madryn is the Kaikoura of Argentina; a base for whale-watching and sea lion-spotting in the waters off Peninsula Valdes, a UNESCO World Heritage area thanks to abundant marine life.

Depending on the time of year, a peninsula daytrip could have you witnessing gigantic elephant seals lazing like rows of grey cigars on the sand, southern right whales frolicking metres off the beach, or even orcas launching themselves through the surf for a fur seal snack.

Puerto Madryn itself is relaxed, even sleepy. Stroll kilometres of pale sands and grab yourself a tasty cornalito (cone of fried, salty mini fish) on the boardwalk. Bask in sun and sea. Look to the horizon – we’re told if you started swimming due east you’d miss the bottom of Africa, and wouldn’t actually hit land until Greymouth.

If you’re up for more marine life, a short (for vast Patagonia – where main centres can be 14 to 24-hour bus rides apart) drive a few hours south leads to Punta Tombo, a 3km stretch of coast which between September and April is home to half a million Magellan penguins – reputedly the largest mainland colony outside Antarctica. As you wander the trail to a beach lookout, penguins start appearing from everywhere, waddling towards you, popping up from under tussock, guarding chicks and eggs.

However, the true rugged heart of Patagonia lies south and inland; the sprawling Santa Cruz province. Tourist town El Calafate may be somewhat forgettable itself, but its surrounding areas and activities are certainly not.

Less than two hours away sits the 70-metre high, 5km long face of Perito Moreno Glacier. Stretching back more than 30km, the glacier is merely the tiniest tip of the humongous Southern Patagonian Ice Field. Sign up for a mini-trekking tour, strap on some crampons, and go for a hike on the glacier itself. A guide explains it’s one of the rare temperate, advancing glaciers in the world – others being “halfway around the world in New Zealand”. The visitor centre gives panoramic views of the massive face. Listen for the cracks and groans – you just might see building-sized blocks of ice sheer off, plummeting into swirling waters.

El Calafate is also a great launch-pad for some tremendous Patagonian hiking – whether you head slightly north to rustic El Chalten, or west across the Chilean border to stunning Torres del Paine national park; mountains, glaciers, forests, waterfalls, and wildlife. Alpaca-like guanaco wander grasslands. You can hire any gear (boots, tent, stove, clothing, packs, sleeping bags) you need, and everything from day walks to overnight and multi-day treks are on offer.

The further south you travel in Patagonia, the more rugged and isolated it becomes. In the end, you find yourself at the very “end of the earth”. A massive archipelago at the southern tip of South America, Tierra del Fuego is shared by Chile and Argentina, and you have to cross the Straits of Magellan from the mainland to reach it. Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world; the rendezvous point for travellers taking a cruise to Antarctica. But Ushuaia, with its inhospitable subpolar climate, has more to offer than just status as the gateway to the seventh continent. Its isolation and geography have created a fascinating history, having over the centuries added explorers, missionaries, prospectors, pirates, fishermen, naval forces, and even a prison colony to the native population. There are some fantastic museums in the town (particularly the prison museum) and plenty of water-based wildlife to see in both the Beagle Channel and the nearby national park – including, bizarrely, Canadian beavers.

Just pick the right time of year to visit. And bring warm wet-weather gear, regardless.