Travel - The winter wonders of Canterbury

I am envious, very envious… at all those skiers having a fantastic time racing down the snow-clad slopes of Mt Hutt or one of the 17 other ski fields the Canterbury region is home to. You see, I am a beginner when it comes to skiing, yet I decided to join a few mates on their trip down south. If nothing else, I could always distract myself with a massage, a scenic helicopter ride or a visit to Methven’s quirky café and second-hand shop, Primo E Secundo, where everything is for sale (including the furniture you sit on).

Our first stop exploring the region was Porters in the Selwyn district – a friendly, small, commercial ski field primarily for families, beginners and intermediate skiers. Lovely atmosphere and good instructors. I even had a lesson here, my first ever, and did actually enjoy the sensation of being able to stand on skis and glide along after an hour’s instruction.

If it weren’t for the fact that you have to wear those darn uncomfortable skiing boots, I could possibly be persuaded to go back and have more lessons. The amazing thing is that the learning curve for beginners is extremely rapid, and before you know it you’re actually skiing. Not Olympic style, but still!

Everyone else seemed to have fun too, kids and adults alike, and after a day at Porters my friends couldn’t wait to check out the far more rugged club field at Broken River. Understandable, as that place really offers some amazing experiences for advanced skiers. Forget about being a beginner here – unless you’re a kid being taught by your parents – it’s not for the faint hearted. Just getting onto the slopes seems like an ordeal, yet the members love it.

There are no ski lifts at Broken River; merely a system with a rope and nutcracker type of device. Fascinating! Even getting to the lodge is an ordeal. An icy and narrow, yet pretty, tree-lined forest road leads you to a tram built by members of the club. Once your gear is on board, the slow ascent high into the alpine area begins. The tram stops 1,500m above sea level where funky wooden chalets with bunk beds, communal cooking and semi-outdoor long-drop toilets await.

Broken River is a real and memorable Kiwiana experience that you share with passionate skiers of all ages and from all walks of life! Each year, it employs a professional instructor and this season sees Mark Kline, a Canadian top-notch skier, helping club members as well as visitors improve their skills.

“This place is all about skiing. You spend the day on the slopes, feel tired at the end of it, then have a few beers with your mates and go to bed. And you actually can’t wait to go skiing again over the next days. The passion of the sport is a big thing here. If you go to a commercial ski field, there is a different vibe. People are on holiday and may not want to ski all day… it’s a very different experience,” says Mark Kline.

And he is absolutely spot on. The vibe at Mt Hutt, the biggest commercial ski field in the South Island, is very different. The snow is great, the pistes are for all levels and there is a real buzz amongst the keen local and international skiers who enjoy showing off their skills, as well as the latest in skiing and snowboarding fashion!

Mt Hutt not only boasts the longest season of ‘skiable’ snow in the south, it also offers state-of-the-art facilities, especially compared to Broken River. This year also sees them with a brand new ‘magic carpet’ done in a classic, almost ‘no 8 wire’ fashion. “It’s built from shipping containers,” explains James Urquhart, Mt Hutt’s marketing manager. “It’s like a tunnel and much better than the previous open-air one as it’s sheltered, drier and warmer. There’re even TV-screens in there!”

Although I am practically a non skier, I did enjoy feeling these vibes and seeing happy kids racing down the slopes. However, I preferred taking in Canterbury’s mountainous and rural scenery, with partly-frozen lakes shining like diamonds and morning mist enveloping the landscape to create an atmosphere of mystique. Thankfully, it’s not all about skiing down south. In fact, there are quite a number of marvellous non-skiing activities to keep you entertained. Like hot air ballooning.

Admittedly, 6.00am is quite early to get up when on holiday, but the thought of gliding through the still morning air, a mile above the ground, and watching the sun come up over the mountains to warm the frosty landscape is too good an opportunity to miss. A trip with the Methven-based Aoraki Balloon Safaris is a stunningly quiet and peaceful experience. And what better way to finish off a few days of recharging those tired winter batteries…

For more information, visit www.christchurchnz.co.nz.